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VINDALHO

Published: October 2007
Gourmet

Vindalho's seasonal, farm-fresh approach to the classic dishes of India explains why there's so much buzz about this loftlike space in southeast Portland. Take the usually ordinary, potato-stuffed samosa: In the spring, chef de cuisine David Anderson makes these fried dumplings with Yukon Gold potatoes, hand-shelled fava beans, and English peas and serves them with chutney made from locally grown mint; in the winter, they're stuffed with sweet potatoes. Or consider the Indian street snack of watermelon and black salt, reinterpreted as a salad of eastern Oregon's Hermiston melons (available for only 30 days in high summer) sprinkled with sour-salty chaat masala, serrano chiles, and lime juice. It's a unique melding of Northwest produce and Spice Route flavors, executed with a sure hand. 2038 S.E. Clinton St., Portland, OR (503-467-4550)

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