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The Curry Club

February-March, 2008
MIX magazine

When this Indian restaurant opened in 2005, there was skepticism about white guys cooking curries. These days, Vindalho is buzzing and is easily one of the city's essential destinations. The silverware gleams, a back bar serves up Pink Floyds, and Northwest ingredients beam from the blackboard. Sure, you're a million miles from Mumbai, not to mention the great little curry dive. But what you love about Indian food - mouthfuls of tingly, complex flavors, lusty chutneys for tinkering, pillows of hot naan bread - are found here, along with terrific service and a well-curated little wine list. The knowing crowds are coming - and so are the Indian families. The smallish menu focuses on the tandoori-centric cooking of the north, and the food is more spicy than hot. But nearly everything is tasty, and the Portuguese-influenced Goan dishes are flying: super-tender pork Vindalho full of chile-vinegar sensations, and mussels steeped in tamarind and coconut milk, then shrouded with coconut. More Goan, southern options and family-style suppers are in the works, and that can only be a good thing.

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