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Customers' wish is Vindalho's desire

The Portland Tribune

Some restaurants require an every-man-for-himself attitude, where customers are forced to take an active role in procuring what they desire.

The first task may be to ask for a menu. Next comes sitting up taller and looking eager – like a dog waiting for a human to drop a piece of bacon – so that someone, anyone, takes the order. Then you'll need to look thirsty, so you can get a drink. Later you'll have to ask for more bread, then you'll probably need to look thirsty again, and eventually you'll have to somehow signal for the check ("for the love of God, let me out!").

But at the best restaurants, waiters anticipate every need flawlessly. Vindalho (2038 S.E. Clinton St., 503-467-4550) is this kind of restaurant. The service is so good, you barely notice it.

What you will notice is the imposing figure of owner David Machado wandering around his new restaurant. Machado's large presence at Vindalho makes you feel protected, like maybe he'll smack anyone who stands between you and a great dinner.

Originally Machado intended to serve a combination of Thai, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Indonesian and Indian cuisine at Vindalho, but he's revised that plan, focusing only on Indian food. Machado and chef de cuisine David Anderson have divided the menu among starters, curries, tandoor oven, side dishes and condiments.

From the starters section, try lamb kofta, scrumptious, melt-in-your mouth lamb meatballs. Toasted chickpeas add a nice crunch to the roasted beet salad with tangy yogurt dressing.

Spicy shrimp and potato samosas are only barely spicy, but they are deliciously creamy and flaky. They're served with tamarind date chutney, one of three excellent chutneys on the menu. If you've only tasted chutney out of a jar, you'll be pleasantly surprised by the not-too-sweet, fresh taste of Vindalho's chutneys.

Carnivores will love pork vindalho, tender, braised pork shoulder with red chiles, garlic and vinegar. Chicken tikka, from the tandoor oven, is another fine choice. The poriyal of seasonal vegetables is so rich, it's almost hard for this carnivore to believe there's no meat in it.

If the menu lacks anything, it's real spiciness. A few of the dishes are prepared with chiles that add a small spark of fire when you bite into them, but if there's a dish on the menu that's spicy through and through, I've missed it.

The prices at Vindalho are reasonable. Sixteen dollars is the most you'll spend on an entree. Sometimes a restaurant's prices will appear to be reasonable, but then you have to order three entrees to get enough food.

That's not so at Vindalho. The entrees aren't huge, but they're definitely enough. Unfortunately, the menu doesn't list what accompanies the entrees, so ask your server before ordering any of the sides, or you might end up ordering a side of basmati rice (it's good, by the way) when your entree already comes with it.

Vindalho is a pretty space with high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling windows, a wide, open kitchen and a short bar. Like Machado's other restaurant, Lauro (3377 S.E. Division St., 503-239-7000), Vindalho does not accept reservations.

Vindalho is open from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday and has a full bar.

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